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Old 08-11-2017, 11:03 PM   #1
Bulleidboy
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Default To Paint or not to paint that is the question!

I've been working on some Ratio Station Canopies. The roof detail is very intricate with girders and strengthening plates etc., which in 00 are very small. The obvious choice is to paint these items while they are still on the sprue. I find in using this method when construction starts, the parts won't stick together as they have been painted. I usually use Liquid Poly on plastic kits and it doesn't like paint. The easiest method - I think - is to build the kit and then paint it, but then you get areas you can't reach with the paint brush. How do you go about this?
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Old 08-11-2017, 11:11 PM   #2
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Logical sub assemblies......

Or an airbrush......(which can still leave you with out of reach areas)

Clear the mating faces (most often I use a scalpel) or a piece of extra fine sandpaper.
But 99% of the time it's a scalpel blade backstroke.
(Hold blade at near 90' to the piece, and drag away, in a manner such that the blade does not dig in)
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Old 08-11-2017, 11:19 PM   #3
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BB, I’m not familiar with the OO version but I did build the N version. I found it easier to part assemble the various parts of the model then spray assembled components with the base colour paint.
So I assembled the roof without the interior and sprayed the outside grey. After masking the outside, I sprayed the interior in an off-white, then did all the supports in their main colour etc.
To stick them together I scraped the paint from the joining surfaces and used Revell glue which is midway in consistency between Mekpak and tubed adhesives.
Fairly simple to pick out the details in their appropriate colours.
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Old 08-11-2017, 11:58 PM   #4
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I used Humbrol aerosol paint to spray my Ratio coaling tower and heavy lift crane. Bit like Mackeson, reaches the parts other paints can't reach.
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Old 09-11-2017, 12:13 AM   #5
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Thanks Steve and Aviator for your suggestions.

I have sprayed parts in the past in white matt, as the plastic was dark chocolate brown - this worked ok. I have found using the "part-assembled" method, when putting it all together, parts don't always sit well together. I have another one to build - I'll get some Revell glue. With this particulars kit (and I expect others) the instructions can be slightly misleading. Probably like the two of you, I have built enough plastic kits over the years, to feel competent enough to have a quick glance at the instructions to check nothing untoward, and then proceed, but you can still find parts out of alignment. I will vary my production method on the remaining kits.
Many thanks. Barry
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Old 09-11-2017, 12:18 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walkingthedog View Post
I used Humbrol aerosol paint to spray my Ratio coaling tower and heavy lift crane. Bit like Mackeson, reaches the parts other paints can't reach.
I thought that was Heineken(?).
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Old 09-11-2017, 12:28 AM   #7
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Oh yes so it is. Getting mixed up with looks good tastes good and by golly it does you good.
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Old 09-11-2017, 09:53 AM   #8
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Ignore the instructions!
Although don't dismiss them entirely......
It must be 20 years or more since I built a kit in the correct sequence!

Also, try shaking the pot. Not sure if the glue settles but I had issues with Decal fix, which I thought was problematic decals, turns out it had been a while since last use and a quick shake solved my issue.

If things don't align properly, don't dismiss superglue!
(Quite often I use superglue on aircraft wing halves, just a dot, to hold things while the proper plastic glue does its thing.)
This could also be the alignment pegs/holes on the mould itself.
Be sure they're wrong, and if so, cut them off where necessary.

Plenty of kits have this issue, even just half the hole out is enough to skew things.

Not sure about this generally, but I think the tubes work better than liquid poly, although it has uses, for me, the thicker stuff works better in most applications.


Finally, steam.

Not sure about actual buildings for kits, as I've never built any, but would assume some warping could occur, quite a common issue with resin and large (normally older) parts of kits. I mean, the revell (matchbox) Victor I built, the fuselage halves were like two bananas with opposing curves, nose to tail touched but you could easily pass your fingers through the gap!

Make your self a cup of tea, use the steam to adjust warpage.
Steam, before and after. (New tool airfix Fw190)
https://flic.kr/p/oCa8dM
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Old 09-11-2017, 09:55 AM   #9
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I do some on the sprue and some after depending on the model's construction. If glueing after painting just ensure the actual faces where they meet are scrapped clean first and it will work fine
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Old 09-11-2017, 12:30 PM   #10
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If you paint something on the sprue (use a brush) it is easy not to paint the surface where it joins and fixes to other parts. Just dont paint the bits where glue is required. Easy peezy lemon squeezy. Or am I missing something here.
John
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