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Old 17-04-2018, 07:20 PM   #11
Walkingthedog
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I leave the pins in place. I challenge anybody to find them without running your fingers over the sleepers.
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Old 17-04-2018, 07:46 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Walkingthedog View Post
Yes theyíre the ones.
Thank you - ordered and on their way .
Jim
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Old 18-04-2018, 05:35 AM   #13
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If you are going to glue and ballast your track, why not use thumb tacks as a temporary measure to hold the track in place.
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Old 18-04-2018, 08:18 AM   #14
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Yes they work but I prefer the pins, I donít have to remove them and are always useful to have.
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Old 07-07-2018, 09:37 AM   #15
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I found a pair of needle nose pliers to hold the pin
and several short light taps (pin hammer, not a normal hammer)
were enough to place these pins through 9mm ply without predrilling

(Yes I bent a few but even a 6” wire bends if you clump it!)

I do agree they are just a tad long for 9mm ply, however, if I had used a cork underlay.......probably length would be ok.
overall I’d say your account is spot on!
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Old 07-07-2018, 10:41 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Parkes View Post
The advantage of the Peco Pins is the minimal hole they make in the sleeper. If you are going to glue ballast the track then it only needs to be pinned in place until the glued ballast dries and then the pins can be removed. If doing that you do not need to fit the pin fully down, just enough to sufficiently hold the track initially and pins which have bent often have enough grip in the baseboard. They are also useful as handrail sanctions!
I fully agree with Mike. I use Peco SL-14 pins exclusively in their Streamline track.
Pre drill a fine hole in sleeper and partly into the baseboard (I've even used a pin with its head removed as the drill bit - cheap. reliable and easy to replace!) I use an Archimedes drill to make the holes.

Push pin in to around 50%-60% of its length then bend the top portion over 90 degrees and lay it along the sleeper. This allows rolling stock to be run to test everything before ballasting. Once ballast is dry, remove pin and only a very tiny hole is left which disappears with a touch of sleeper grime paint.
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Old 07-07-2018, 11:29 AM   #17
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Push pin in to around 50%-60% of its length then bend the top portion over 90 degrees and lay it along the sleeper. This allows rolling stock to be run to test everything before ballasting. Once ballast is dry, remove pin and only a very tiny hole is left which disappears with a touch of sleeper grime paint.[/QUOTE]


This exactly........although I didnít paint Ďowt!
That track test tip is exactly how I did it. Although in some places, points in particular (and to help when forming/keeping the curve on flexi) the pin is driven down so the head of the pin catches the sleeper.

At this point I havenít drilled through a single sleeper to fix track down.
The board is transportable, but lots of pins must be used in places.
Everything (until I finally soldered all droppers) could be lifted/removed.
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Old 07-07-2018, 02:47 PM   #18
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I drill all my sleepers for the pins, tap then with a hammer to start them and then trive them with an old crosshead bit for a clean drive. Unfortunately I still find that the slightest deviation on the way in still creates a deformity in the track.

I have since decided to remove all track pins as my metre length track former confirms my suspicions that the track is not straight enough and I will use the former to hold perfectly straight then glue the track. I will then only use track pins for temporary holding from now on.
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