Model Railway Forum

Go Back   Model Railway Forum > Model Railway Construction > Track Layout & Design

Track Layout & Design Help with designing your track work


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 13-08-2018, 12:48 PM   #11
Walkingthedog
Part time idiot
 
Walkingthedog's Avatar
 

Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: HAZLEMERE, Bucks
Posts: 10,432
Walkingthedog is on a distinguished road
Default

You donít use a hammer on track pins. Push them in with the end of some pliers or similar. Gaugemaster make the best pins, flat heads and very sharp.
__________________
NURSE,the screens!
Walkingthedog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 13-08-2018, 12:50 PM   #12
ajcooper4
Senior Member
 

Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Warminster
Posts: 140
ajcooper4 is on a distinguished road
Default

WTD I take your point but using MDF board, as I have, I have found only a light tapping with a small engineer's hammer will do it. Mind you, I am using Peco track pins. You think Guagemaster are better?
ajcooper4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 13-08-2018, 01:17 PM   #13
4VEP
Hornby Collector
 

Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Rye East Sussex
Posts: 649
4VEP is on a distinguished road
Default

What you could do is fit the track to 4mm ply, ballast it up and finish detailing and then slide it into place under the eaves. Saves grovelling about and banging your head!
__________________
Railway Modelling is about life, the universe and everything.
4VEP is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 13-08-2018, 01:49 PM   #14
Walkingthedog
Part time idiot
 
Walkingthedog's Avatar
 

Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: HAZLEMERE, Bucks
Posts: 10,432
Walkingthedog is on a distinguished road
Default

I do yes but itís a matter of taste.
__________________
NURSE,the screens!
Walkingthedog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14-08-2018, 05:13 PM   #15
SteamnutKR
Member
 

Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Cardigan, W.Wales
Posts: 38
SteamnutKR is on a distinguished road
Default

Agreed with all the foregoing. We all have our own preferred way of doing things. Myself, I lay 1/8" cork (tiles), using PVA adhesive & a spreader as a base in goods yards & station
areas where one has multiple tracks. Otherwise I use 2" (or 4") wide strips of cork as above. The edges I chamfer so there is a realistic edge to the ballasting (and to the cess). I then cover this with double sided commercial quality double sided adhesive carpet tape. When satisfied with the position of the track (using the occasional pin if required) I then ballast the whole, following up with my 'Hooverette' of ancient vintage to recycle the excess. Some parts of my layout have been down for the best part of 20 years now, & will be there for as long as I will need them!
SteamnutKR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 16-08-2018, 10:10 PM   #16
ajcooper4
Senior Member
 

Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Warminster
Posts: 140
ajcooper4 is on a distinguished road
Default

Good to hear othersí views and how they do things. My tricky bit of track will be covered with a tunnel (eventually) so I decided to try securing in place with PVA - as it will be hidden looks are unimportant. Itís set well and seems very secure. If I ever need to lift or move it it will be difficult for sure!
ajcooper4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18-08-2018, 11:46 PM   #17
steel bat
Junior Member
 
steel bat's Avatar
 

Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 21
steel bat is on a distinguished road
Default

I've used some 2nd radius setrack to get round a sharp corner. I've got one of the tender-drive Counties, a pig of a machine that'll stall on a speck of dust, but it does get round the bend ok.
The loco I find that does bind a bit is a Hornby 61xx prairie. It does get round but I have to turn the controller up and you can tell it doesn't like it.
steel bat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19-08-2018, 10:40 AM   #18
Mike Parkes
Senior Member
 

Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 246
Mike Parkes is on a distinguished road
Default

Have you checked the County is picking up correctly on all the wheels it is supposed to, you need to push the wheels as far as they will go from side to side to see if the pick up wipers are in contact with the wheels at all times. If you need to adjust a wiper have the wheel as far from the chassis as it will go and hold the end fo the wiper onto the wheel with a small screwdriver - then with another small implement push the metal strip of the wiper slightly back towards the chassis, remove the screwdriver and check the wiper is touching the back of the wheel when the wheel is outer it outermost postion and that the wheels will easily move from side to side. Undertake further adjustments as necessary.

If some wheels that pick up power have no wipers to them check that the axles and the bearings through which they pass are not dirty or overly oily - best to use an conduting oil on these if needed like Peco Electrolube.
Mike Parkes is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump



All times are GMT +1. The time now is 11:44 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.3
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.