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Old 08-10-2017, 11:12 PM   #11
RFS
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I do it on the workbench before laying the point - makes it easy to get it at the right angle. I also bond the stock rail and closure rail as recommended, and do this with a long wire that becomes a DCC dropper.

I use solid, pre-tinned wire (1x0.6) which sits in recess of the rail quite well. To make sure it solders I first make sure that piece of rail is nice and shiny, then tin it with a bit of solder plus flux. I use a 25w Antex soldering iron with a fairly narrow tip so as not to melt any sleepers.
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Old 08-10-2017, 11:17 PM   #12
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Quote:
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Yes but how do you do it without damaging the plastic. The spaces are awfully small to stick a soldering iron into!
It is really a case of using the right tool for the job.
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Old 09-10-2017, 01:22 PM   #13
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Probably not the neatest solder job I grant you but it now works. A little rail weathering followed by ballasting and it will hardly be noticeable.
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Old 09-10-2017, 03:57 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Teedoubleudee View Post
Probably not the neatest solder job I grant you but it now works. A little rail weathering followed by ballasting and it will hardly be noticeable.
There is an alternative....fit ordinary track joiners, solder your link wires further away from the frog where there is more space, then use a slitting disc to cut the track to create an isolated long frog.
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Old 09-10-2017, 08:30 PM   #15
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There is an alternative....fit ordinary track joiners, solder your link wires further away from the frog where there is more space, then use a slitting disc to cut the track to create an isolated long frog.
The problem with doing that using plastic, flexible track is that temperature variations can cause the rail to expand and contract, and can lead to the gap closing. You then get a sudden, unexplained short one hot afternoon or evening. Guess how I know?

An alternative is to have short length of track next to the frog where you solder your frog wire, and then connect that downstream with an IRJ. The IRJ has a wedge of plastic to ensure the rails don't close up.
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Old 09-10-2017, 10:25 PM   #16
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If you are worried about that, a tip from Flashbang is to glue a sliver of plasticard in the gap and file it to the shape of the rail. But in all my years of modelling I've never had a cut gap close up.
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